Grand Tetons sightseeing

You can download a Grand Teton park map at: http://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/maps.htm

to be able to follow along with this narrative.

A larger version of this drawing of the Teton range, with the names of each peak, as printed in the park newspaper, is at:

Teton range peak names

To print yourself a copy of three profile drawings

of the Teton Range with the names of peaks seen from these three views:

1) Highway 89, one mile south of Moose Junction

2) Teton Point turnout on Highway 89

3) from Jackson lake Lodge

go to:

http://www.nps.gov/grte/parkmgmt/guideres.htm

and click on Teton profile

Please note it is against park regulations to imitate an elk bugle or wolf/coyote howl or use any artificial or natural audio attractants to attract or disturb wildlife.

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When you see a bunch of cars stopped along the road, it usually means someone spotted a large mammal. As you sightsee, park in parking lots in designated parking spaces or well out of traffic on a solid road side pavement strip. Remember that parking on natural vegetation results in permanent damage to plants; violators are ticketed.

All is well when the moose is up on a hill, but when he decides to come down, cross the road, and head for his mid-day napping/hiding place, people need to give him a lot more room than these did:

Read about safety at wildlife jams

The camera angle in one of the photos above makes the moose look much smaller than he was. Try this comparison of a SUV and a moose (NPS photo) :

For more size comparisons go to:

Rocky Mountain mammal size comparisons

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You can't always drive on every road or hike every trail. The park enforces a half mile closure from Feb. 15 to Aug. 15 around all bald eagle nests, a closure from April 1 to September 1 within 330 feet (or as posted) around nesting sites of osprey, trumpeter swans, peregrine falcons and great blue herons. The area within one mile of wolf den sites is closed as well. Sometimes trails or even whole sections of roadways can be closed due to grizzly activity. Mid-march to mid-May the sage grouse seasonal mating arena (lek) is closed and observers are asked to arrive well before sunrise, remain as quiet as possible and not leave until after the birds have completed their morning display.

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There are two roads between Moose Junction and Jackson Lake Junction. The main road, 23 miles on this section, Highways 191, 26/89, is straighter and generally faster, except during road construction. It has a nighttime (30 minutes after official sunset to 30 minutes before official sunrise) speed limit of 45 m.p.h.

In 2010, vehicles in the park hit and killed two wolves, five bears, 6 pronghorn, 17 bison, five moose, 41 deer and 48 elk. Most of the deaths occured between dawn and dusk on the main highway between Moose and Moran Junctions. Please drive the speed limit and be prepared to stop suddenly. Speed was the biggest factor, especially at night when people "overdrive their high beams - when stopping distance is greater than the headlight illumination distance." Driving slower than the posted speed limit, especially after dark, can save animal (and human) lives.

From Moose, away from the loop road this webpage describes, four miles south on the slow, winding Moose-Wilson road (no Rvs or trailers allowed) is the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve. Carpools and an early arrival are advised as there is limited parking. The building is LEED (Leadership in Environmental and Energy Design) platinum level, like the De Anza Kirsch Center. It features high-definition nature videos, a library with comfy seating and a soundscape room with nature recordings Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Soundscape Key. You can pick up a nature explorers pack. In the fall on our trips the road is sometime closed past the preserve due to animal activity. The center is open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (June 1- Sept. 22, 2013)

On one wall is an extraordinary rendition of Phelps Lake, (a short hike from the center), made of hundreds of individual nature photos that the photos below do not do justice to:

If you turn off at Antelope Flats road just north of Moose, Mormon Row runs south from it to Gros Ventre Junction road.

The main highway has a number of turnouts to stop and take pictures, and side roads down to the river.

At the end of bumpy dirt Schwabacher landing Road, here is the view:

360 degree view from the Teton Point turnout

http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=teton_view_point

The Snake River overlook is where Ansel Adams took his famous 1942 black and white picture. (Photo from National Archives.)

We recommend you include a 3/4 mile walk around the 1890 Cunningham Cabin, 6 miles south of Moran.

It's a lodgepole pine "dog-trot" building of two boxes apart from each other with a sod-covered roof over its entirety, creating a veranda in the center. At first it was used as a house, then a barn and smithy.

The buck-and-rail fences at the homestead and in the entire area were used so that people didn't have to dig fence post holes in the rocky ground. They are designed with upright Xs or "cross bucks" supporting the horizontal rails.

A 360 degree view of the area:

http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=cunningham_cabin

read more at:

Campfire Tales of Jackson Hole

THE AFFAIR AT CUNNINGHAM'S RANCH

http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/grte/chap5.htm

All along this road are occasional opportunities for seeing bison, or in this case, horses and bison grazing together:

Part of the road is often long and straight,

tempting you to exceed the speed limit, but try not to. You'll be much happier when you have the time to brake as an animal runs across the road in front of you or a tourist stops suddenly when they think they've seen something.

At the Moran entrance station the main road bears left. From the entrance station it is 5 miles to a junction with the Teton Park Road described below. On the way you should stop at the small parking lot / turnoff on the left for Oxbow Bend, one of the best aquatic wildlife watching areas. Check with the park for times a Ranger will be there to answer questions. On our trips this is the place we most often kayak at in the morning.

Photo below by Fred Hanselmann http://www.hanselmannphotography.com/Pictures_of_the_tetons.html)

The other road in this circle tour (Teton Park Road, inner park road) is on the other side of the river, closer to the mountains. It also has various turnouts worth stopping at.

There is a bridge on the Snake River at Moose, Wyoming that looks down on prime moose habitat.

With a telephoto or your own binuculars you can see any moose that are in the vicinity up close:

At Moose junction, just over the bridge, turn left to the Grand Tetons Discovery and Visitor center , which has the biggest collection of books, postcards and posters for sale (they accept your Yosemite Association membership card for a discount) and free wireless internet.

Open year-round, closed Dec. 25. May 1- June 2 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., June 3- Sept. 2 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sept. 3- Oct. 31 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (2013).

a 360 degree view is at:

http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=craig_thomas_discovery_and_visitor_center

http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=grand_teton_national_park_bookstore

From the welcome-to info:

"Touch rocks, video rivers, climbing equipment, fur, footprints, and life-like displays stimulate the senses and invite exploration of Grand Teton National Park...

The interwoven themes of place, people, and preservation encourage visitors to connect intellectually and emotionally with Grand Teton National Park. The “video river”, a series of video screens in the floor with an accompanying soundtrack, leads you from “Place” to “People” to “Preservation” following the symbolic river flowing through the valley. As you enter “Place,” the video river displays footage of animals and the landscape during the different seasons. The “People” footage traces American Indians, trappers, and visitors across this landscape. Finally, the “Preservation” footage shows the story of historic structures, wild places, and on-going processes that are important to the park’s future. Images of flowing water at the end of each video segment connect the three themes...

A raised-relief map provides a birds-eye view of this landscape. The color scheme replicates natural communities, while the wedge of the Teton Range towers over Jackson Hole and slopes gently toward the Idaho plains. Look for the park’s major landmarks such as the Grand Teton and Jenny Lake. Notice metal bars embedded in the floor, radiating like spokes from the entry toward the terrace. If you stand on these “Peak Identifiers” and look west, your gaze will fall upon one of the major peaks in the Teton Range. Inside, the bars are engraved with the peak name and elevation, but if you follow the bars out to the terrace, you can learn the origin of the peak’s name and interesting facts about that mountain."

The video rivers can also be seen online: http://www.nps.gov/grte/photosmultimedia/video_rivers.htm

You can watch a 24 minute high-definition movie: Grand Teton National Park: Life on the Edge.

Down a side road is a float trip parking area, down another side road on the opposite side of the river are rental cabins, gas, small store, a deli/pizzeria and canoe/bike/sports rentals.

Find each of these on an aerial photo/ map at:

Moose, Wyoming

It is safer to enjoy a bike ride on a designated bike/roller blade/walk path than on the road with drivers looking at scenery instead of you on your bike, and there is am 8 mile long pathway from the Moose Visitor Center (please walk your bike in the parking lot) to South Jenny Lake. Pets (except guide dogs) are prohibited and the pathway is closed from dusk to dawn for wildlife and public safety.

Just past Moose, save time for a long stop at the 1/2 mile loop trail pioneer homesteading displays, historic cabin and store at Menor's Ferry. (The turnoff is on the right as you drive north on the Teton park road just north of the Moose Visitor Center.) The park service says the trail "affords a look at homesteading and pioneer life in Jackson Hole. Ride a replica of the ferry that crossed the Snake River at the turn of the century (the ferry is launched after high water in the spring, usually after the 4th of July," when staffing allows).

"Bill Menor charged 50 cents for a team, 25 cents for a horse and rider. A foot passenger was carried free if a vehicle was crossing...

NPS photo:

During the wild berry season, Bill would charge "huckleberry rates" to the local people—fare one way only—when the berries were ripe along the ridges and around the lakes under the Tetons...

Once, after looking over the miles of sage that covered the levels of land that rise from the river to the mountains, an Eastern lady said to Bill, "Mr. Menor, what do you raise in this country?" Bill, a dyed-in-the-wool bachelor, looked at her and said, "Hell and kids and plenty of both."

Historic Menor store hours usually are 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. through late September. Join a ranger for a 45 minute walk June-early Sept.

You can download a tour map at: http://www.nps.gov/grte/photosmultimedia/upload/Menors-front-back.pdf and find a phone number there to call from your cell phone for a tour.

Read more at:

The park website page about Menor's ferry is at: http://www.nps.gov/grte/historyculture/menors.htm

Campfire Tales of Jackson Hole

MOUNTAIN RIVER MEN The story of Menor's ferry

http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/grte/chap7.htm

Read a thumbnail history of the founding of the park at: http://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/upload/creation.pdf

and a historical overview (A Place Called Jackson Hole) at: http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/grte2/hrs.htm

Photo below from http://www.wyomingtalesandtrails.com/tetons2.html

The Chapel of the Transfiguration is nearby. You'll recognize the altar window view framing the tallest Teton peaks from postcards. The park services asks: "Please be respectful, the chapel is a house of worship."

photo below used with permission from Ron Niebrugge: http://www.wildnatureimages.com/

The Sacred Heart Chapel, right on the lake, south of Jackson Lake dam, is not the same photo opportunity.

Moose, Wyoming has a black and white aerial photo/map that could help you locate Menor's and the Chapel of the Transfiguration.

On the left about 8 miles from Moose is the side road to South Jenny Lake. There's another visitor center with geology information, a small store and in season, the (fee) shuttle boat across the lake to Cascade Canyon. Visitor Center June 1- Aug. 25 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. 2013 (the opening in 2013 made possible by our contributions to the Grand Teton Association).

Cascade Canyon is a quite popular hike, sometimes crowded, but not if you get up earlier or go farther than most of the hikers. We've seen moose, deer, a black bear, a pine marten, a fox, a weasel, marmots, pikas, river otters, golden-mantled ground squirrels, tree squirrels, Steller jays, tanagers, sparrows, water ouzels, butterflies and more.

You can do a short hike to Hidden Falls

and the Inspiration Point viewpoint down to the lake (The Rangers lead hikes there daily at 8:30 a.m. for about 2 1/2 hours from early June to early Sept. and occasionally later in September). For a farther hike it's 4.5 miles to the trail junction and another 2.7 miles and a 1,000 foot plus climb to Lake Solitude at 9,024 feet elevation.

Cascade Canyon, Grand Teton National Park has pictures, more details and the shuttle boat cost.

For your safety while wildlife viewing, stay 25 yards at least for most wildlife, and 100 yards for bears, moose, elk, bison and wolves, whether on foot or in your car.

How far away is 100 yards? Picture the length of a football field without the end zones.

25 yards? picture four car lengths or six kayak lengths.

You will really want your own binoculars.

A few miles further north on the Teton Park road is the turnoff to String Lake and the hike/or paddle and portage to Leigh Lake. One stop on the way in is the Cathedral Group Turnout with a spectacular view of the Grand Teton (13,770'), Teewinot (12,317') and Mt. Owen (12,922').

Just past the String Lake parking lot, the road becomes one way for the Jenny Lake Scenic Drive. As you drive, bike or hike this route you are on the terminal moraine of the Jenny Lake Glacier that formed the lake. There is a small parking lot right above the lakeshore with this view across to Cascade Canyon:

We like this road better than some others for bike riding as the traffic is slower. The JLS drive rejoins the Teton Park Road near South Jenny Lake.

At some point during your trip you should take the 5 mile drive up (20 mph) Signal Mountain summit road for a panoramic view of the entire Teton range, Jackson Lake and most of Jackson Hole.

A description of the drive, and which parking lot to use for which views, is at: Signal Mountain, Wyoming.

On the left past Signal Mountain Lodge you'll see Jackson Lake close by for the first time. Past this bay, just before the dam itself, is a small parking lot with restrooms. From there you can walk out on the dam for a long view and pictures.

360 degree view from the Jackson Lake dam:

http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=jackson_lake_dam

At Jackson Lake junction our two roads meet and combine to head north to Colter Bay and Yellowstone. Just before you pass Jackson Lake Lodge you might find a traffic jam and cars parked along the roadway. This will either be because someone spotted a moose on the left at a big pond well below the roadway, or because a lot of people are looking for moose, swans and ducks along the sagebrush trails of Christian Pond on the right.

Look for the black and white aerial photo at: Jackson Lake Lodge vicinity to find Christian Pond.

COLTER BAY VISTOR CENTER and INDIAN ARTS MUSEUM

About eight miles north of Jackson Lake junction, down the road from the Colter Bay campground and cabins, the Colter Bay visitor center (May 11-June 2 , 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. June 3 - Sept. 2, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sept. 3 - 29, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. 2013).

Some of the David T. Vernon Indian Arts Museum displays have been sent to a conservation facility.

Each year the park sponsors a program for visiting Native American artists at the Colter Bay Visitor Center, usually a different artist each week, May to September. Guest artists usually exhibit daily, Monday through Sunday, from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. adjacent to the Grand Teton Association bookstore. Artists also offer their finished items for purchase, including painting, carving, beadwork, weaving, jewelry, quillwork, drums, flutes, flint knapping, knives &/or pottery.

At the north end of Colter Bay there is a 1.5 mile trail with a small causeway to an island. A self-guiding nature trail goes around the island. The trail starts behind the visitor center or at the day use area.

Look for the black and white aerial photo at: Colter Bay, Grand Teton National Park to find the visitor center, lakeside picnic area, grocery, etc.

Past Colter Bay, on your way to Yellowstone, stop at the north end of Jackson Lake for this view, as seen in an Ansel Adams photograph (courtesy of the National Archives.)

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You can get boat or backpack permits, a complete bird checklist, park fishing regulations and lots of other information and questions answered at any visitor center. The Moose and Jenny Lake centers have a raised relief map of the park, a section of which is shown below. (Jackson Lake is the big lake, Jenny Lake is the lake in blue at the top left, the red dot is the visitor center.)

Adventurers young and old can pick up the paperwork to earn a Grand Teton Junior Ranger badge, and take the pledge. You will want to start work on this at the beginning of the De Anza trip to have time to complete it.

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Annual impacts of vehicle collisions with wildife in Grand Teton: $155,000 personal property damage, over 100 large animals killed annually.

Photo of griz and cubs crossing a road in Grand Teton park courtesy of NPS:

The local Forest Service reminds us:

"YOU ARE TOO CLOSE TO WILDLIFE IF:

· The animal stops feeding or resting.

· The animal starts moving either toward or away from you.

· The animal starts panting, huffing or making unusual sounds.

· The animal begins pawing the ground or swinging its head.

· Neck hair or feathers stand up.

· The animal appears nervous, uneasy or stressed.

If you notice these signs you are disturbing the animal and it is time to slowly move away.The safest way to view wildlife is through binoculars or spotting scopes."

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For a longer tour:

Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway

http://www.byways.org/explore/byways/2052/stories/68392

If you have a topographical map, get it out and check out the spectacular 360 degree view from the summit of the Middle Teton:

http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=middle_teton_summit

We spotted Timbered Island, (is that Bradley Lake?), Moose, Blacktail Butte, the airport, the ski lifts at Snow King Mountain, and of course the Snake River and Antelope Flats.

For details about our next trip, go to: Grand Tetons

Grand Tetons trip pages index has brief descriptions of most of the pages about this trip.

and there's more info at:

Grand Tetons kayaking, Grand Tetons biking

Enhance a hike by reading:

Day hike gear

GORP and hiking snacks

Thunderstorm and lightning safety

At altitude

animal sign comparisons

Hiking Advice has hot weather hiking advice, hiking logistics and the answer to the question: When is the best time of day to cross a mountain stream?

more pictures at:

Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Park photos

photos below by Quang-Tuan Luong/terragalleria.com, all rights reserved.

This is from an eastern U.S. website: The Rockies and the Tetons 2002.

Some of the advice is reasonable, but the author is a bit too worried about dangers. We are including it here mostly for a laugh, but hey, most of it is true. It was all italicized.

"WARNING: I recommend against hiking in these parks, due to the numerous life-threatening dangers. The high altitude of the mountains impose numerous requirements on hikers: lightning strikes the highest points on mountains, and when you are above tree-line you become the highest point, so always get off the mountain when rain occurs; the thin air results in heavy breathing which creates a loss of water vapor, hence you require about three times as much drinking water as required on Eastern U.S. mountains; thin air causes dizziness which can result in falling off the mountain, fainting, and death through edema, which requires numerous days of getting used to the thin air at lower altitudes; thin air provides less protection against ultraviolet radiation, so prescription dark glasses and sunscreen are required. If you do hike in these mountains, always talk with a park ranger about the conditions of the trail and your own physical condition and experience. Always tell someone where you are going, and when to expect you back; never hike alone. Also, the only real window for hiking is around the first two weeks of August, since snowstorms and icestorms can occur at any time. Beware of forest fires, and always check beforehand about their locations. Beware of wild animals jumping right in front of your moving vehicle. Beware of loose rocks and rockslides that may fall onto your trail from mountainsides nearby. Finally, the single greatest cause of death or injury in many of our national parks is automobile accidents, and driving in the western mountains is especially dangerous."

NPS photo: